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His final casual look of the film revives the black shawl-collar cardigan, this time pairing it with a white V-neck t-shirt and khaki chinos. He needs a better shirt, especially to lead us into the final suit of the film. For the film’s climax, Bond wears a mid-blue rugby shirt from Massimo Dutti over a grey t-shirt and navy chinos. The rugby shirt is a superb choice, but the t-shirt is superfluous and detracts from the look tremendously. He’s not on a mission, so he should be wearing more stylish shoes like the suede chukka boots he previously wore in the film. There were much nicer suede trainers available if this was the look he was going to have.

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The Madagascar outfit has many fans, but I find that it’s one of the weakest looks of the Bond series. The loud Liberty-print shirt is uncharacteristic for Bond and makes him stand out too much in the crowd for it to be a practical choice. He draws more attention to himself wearing this shirt than his fellow agent does touching his ear. Layering an unbuttoned shirt over a t-shirt was trendy at the time, but I find the look unnecessarily complicated, and the mostly unbuttoned shirt looks sloppy. Had he just worn the shirt over his bare chest and buttoned the shirt, I think he would have looked much neater.

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• The first suit in Casino Royale stands apart from the rest in the film, being made in England rather than Brioni.
• When Bond arrives in Montenegro, he wears a similar suit in a muted navy glen check, this time with a belt instead of braces.

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There are some brilliant looks in Casino Royale, like the dinner jacket, the Sunspel Riviera polo, the blue swim trunks, the navy raincoat, the barleycorn topcoat. There’s little to suggest that Bond’s appreciation for fine clothes—and three-piece suits—should have come from his first mission as a Double-O . The symbolism in the wardrobe is too heavy handed, even if it resulted in a number of exceptional outfits.

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Brosnan’s suits mostly had double vents, and it’s odd that wasn’t continued for Craig. The first suit in Casino Royale stands apart from the rest in the film, being made in England rather than Brioni. This navy linen suit, worn for the toilet fight and a cut scene in Pakistan, is difficult to see in the film and difficult to properly judge. It has a trendy mid 2000s English cut, with two buttons in a high stance and sporty details like swelled edges. The suit is difficult to judge on Craig because he’s always moving and wears the jacket unbuttoned. It looks good for how it moves in the film and for placing Bond in a suit for the makeshift gun barrel sequence.

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While long sleeves makes sense early in the story, because the sleeves are equally long at the end of the film it means that the sleeve length was not chosen for narrative reasons. The evening shirt from Turnbull & Asser is one of the best shirts of the series and brings a needed English touch to this outfit. The shirt has no fancy front bib and instead is made entirely out of a special waffle weave cotton to distinguish it from an ordinary white shirt. It has a fly placket, folded on both side so the shirt has an elegant symmetrical front. It has a point collar with a significant amount of tie space to comfortably fit the bow tie. These jackpots can soar to over $1,000,000, making every spin a potential ticket to life-changing rewards.

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It has an appropriately modern look for Bond compared to the traditional tan raincoat. Craig’s muscular body in Casino Royale—the most extreme body of the Bond series—is difficult to tailor, both in getting the shape of the clothes to follow the body and in making it look elegant. I think that Hemming and Brioni did a good job at achieving a balance, though I think the shoulders and width of the trouser legs could have been attenuated.

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